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If you have ever sat in the salon chair and heard the words semi, demi, permanent, toner and gloss thrown around, you would be forgiven for wondering what on earth the actual difference is.
The short version: semi permanent hair dye coats the outside of the hair and washes out over a few weeks, while permanent hair colour uses a developer to create a lasting change inside the hair. They might all fall under the umbrella of "hair colour", but they do not behave the same way or give the same result.
Choosing between the two comes down to much more than how long you want your colour to last. Your natural colour, existing colour, hair condition, greys, desired result and even how much maintenance you are willing to commit to can all influence which formula is right for you. At QUE Colour in Darlinghurst, Sydney, this is a conversation we have every day. So let us break it down.
Permanent hair colour creates a lasting change to the hair by using an oxidising developer that allows the colour formula to work within the hair fibre. It is exactly what the name suggests.
This gives your colourist the ability to make a more significant change to your natural colour and achieve results that simply are not possible with a semi-permanent formula. Permanent colour is particularly useful when you want reliable grey coverage, a change to your natural base colour or a result that needs more longevity.
While the colour itself is permanent, that does not mean your hair will look exactly the same forever. Your natural hair keeps growing, so you will eventually see regrowth at the roots. Colour can also shift or fade over time depending on your hair, the shade, your home care and environmental factors.
In other words, permanent colour is a commitment. In the right circumstances, it is exactly the commitment you want.
Semi permanent hair dye deposits pigment around the outside of the hair without a developer, then gradually fades as you shampoo. It is the lower-commitment member of the colour family.
A true semi-permanent colour typically lasts around 4 to 12 washes, although this can vary considerably depending on your hair and the colour used.
Because there is no developer involved, semi-permanent colour is a great option when you want to temporarily enhance your existing shade, experiment with tone or add richness without committing to a permanent colour.
It can also be a gentler option for the hair. That does not mean every product labelled "semi-permanent" is automatically right for every head of hair, though. Your existing colour, porosity and condition still matter, especially if your hair has previously been lightened.
If you are wondering whether semi permanent hair dye can cover greys, the answer is a little more nuanced. It can blend or soften the appearance of some grey hair, but it generally will not provide the same consistent, opaque coverage as permanent colour. Our guide to grey hair blending options goes into more detail.
Demi-permanent hair colour is the middle ground between semi and permanent. It uses a low-strength developer, lasts longer than a true semi, and does not create the same level of permanent change as traditional permanent colour.
For colourists, demi-permanent formulas are incredibly useful. They refine tone, add depth, enhance shine, refresh previously coloured hair and create beautiful dimensional results.
This is also where terms such as hair toner and gloss enter the conversation. They are often discussed alongside semi and demi colour, but the terminology becomes confusing because professional colour systems and at-home products are not always labelled the same way. Our hair colour glossary untangles the language, and our guide to whether you need toner for hair explains where toner fits.
The important part? You do not need to arrive at your appointment knowing which formula you need. That is our job.
There is no universally "better" option. The right choice depends on what you want your hair to do.
Your desired result is only one piece of the puzzle. We also need to consider your hair history. What is already underneath the colour we can see? Has your hair been lightened before? Is there existing permanent colour through the lengths? How porous is it? How healthy does it feel? And what are you realistically prepared to maintain?
This is especially important if your hair is already coloured. Applying another colour is not simply a case of choosing a shade from a chart. Previously coloured hair behaves differently from virgin hair, and what is achievable depends on what has already been done. That is why a colour that worked perfectly for your friend, or looked incredible in a saved Instagram photo, may not be the formula we would choose for you.
At QUE Colour, colour starts with the person sitting in the chair, not the tube.
Before choosing a formula, we look at your current hair, colour history, condition, natural base and the result you are hoping to achieve. We also want to know what happens after you leave the salon. Are you happy to come in regularly for maintenance? Do you want something that grows out softly? Are you trying to cover greys? Do you want a subtle tonal shift or a completely different colour?
These conversations matter because great colour is not just about how it looks on day one. It should make sense for your hair and your lifestyle. Sometimes that means permanent colour. Sometimes it means a demi, semi, toner or a combination of formulas throughout the hair. Professional colour is rarely one-size-fits-all, which is exactly why every one of our colour services is formulated individually.
Whichever formula you end up with, the right colour care products at home will make it last longer and look glossier between visits.
A true semi-permanent colour usually lasts around 4 to 12 washes. Because it sits on the outside of the hair rather than inside it, every shampoo lifts a little more pigment. Colour-safe shampoo, cooler water and less frequent washing will all stretch it towards the longer end.
Semi-permanent colour is one of the gentlest options because it contains no developer and does not lift your natural pigment. It can even add shine and softness. The condition of your hair still matters, particularly if it has been lightened before, so a consultation is always worthwhile.
Partly. Semi-permanent colour can soften and blend grey hair so it looks less noticeable, but it will not give the solid, opaque coverage that permanent colour provides. If full coverage is the goal, permanent or demi-permanent colour is the better tool.
Semi-permanent colour uses no developer and coats the outside of the hair, fading within a few weeks. Demi-permanent colour uses a low-strength developer, so it lasts longer, blends greys better and can refine tone and shine without creating the lasting change of permanent colour.
Usually yes, but the result depends on what is left in the hair. Faded semi-permanent pigment can shift how permanent colour develops, especially on porous or previously lightened hair. Let your colourist know your full colour history so the formula can be adjusted accordingly.
You do not need to know whether you need permanent, demi or semi-permanent colour before you book. You just need to know what you would love your hair to look and feel like.
From there, your QUE colourist will assess your hair, talk through your colour history and recommend the approach that gives you the best result while protecting the health and integrity of your hair. Curious about the rest of the language you hear in the salon? Read how your hair type affects colour results.
And if you are ready to talk about your own colour, book a colour consultation with the QUE Colour team in Darlinghurst and we will work out exactly what your hair needs.
